Wednesday, April 30, 2008

What next....





I´m feeling good. I have just dotted the i´s and crossed the t´s on a very productive class. One of my students will certainly be a leader in the future, whether or not it is for the red army remains to be seen. Nevertheless, this class held a level of significance due to the fact that my hawkish/dovish/hawkish bosses were sitting in. The students were all at a level where they could be asked essentially any question worthy of a response. The theme quickly moved toward the Chilean worker. I asked my very astute pupil his thoughts on the inherent characteristics of the Chilean worker. The student briefly glanced at the ceiling, then at me and then over to the director of the program, the leader of the hawkish/dovish/hawkish coalition. He began, "Chileans don’t work to make more money. Chileans work because it is necessary." I asked what could be more important than survival and isn’t making money a way for people to survive. "Of course to make the money allows survival, but it is very complicated. The Spanish business owners don’t want to pay." I tried to summarize this cultural collage. So, your telling me that Chileans work out of a sense of duty rather than to make money. "Yes." I proceeded to ask more questions but was thinking about my original loaded question. Do Chileans want to achieve status and wealth in order to bring about the South American dream? Or - am I a child of privelge trying to learn the rules to a game that really doesn´t exist. It is very easy to see that Chilean’s know the score. All that can be done will be done and the rest is too deep and confusing to really think about.


Our man, let’s call him Don Chile, runs the show in my neighbourhood. He can be seen and heard directing traffic throughout the day and well beyond the evening hours six days a week. The traffic cops let him run his car washing/mixed sales business without sanction, the pigeons bring him coffee and any gringo lucky enough to get home at 4am might look out a window down into the plaza square, where he lives under a palm tree to see Don Chile dancing a solo salsa – a perfect salsa. Don Chile seems to know who he is. The natural leadership isn’t what impresses me about the Don, it is the detail and effort the man displays as he washes the 162nd car of the day. The white rag is now black and the Don´s clothes aren´t nearly as crisp as when he started but he continues to wash each car as if it were his first – like Bruce Lee repeating a cadence for the nth time – flawless. It is the kind of effort a man of few possessions puts into his most prized asset – but for what end – more business tomorrow or next week, food at the centre of the square or is the end the car. A concept lost to my generation, possibly my people. It seems more apparent that children of privilege hold few things dear in life – even family at times. When adversity presents itself it is an opportunity for character development, what happens to those who lack defining moments… What next….

As my class came to an end the hawkish/dovish/hawkish coalition called me into a meeting. We were discussing a few students and going over some classes that were incorrectly scheduled and needed to be changed. As we were discussing the rhythms of the universe we heard a chorus of voices…. The students have been protesting for the last three weeks-they intend to have the rector/president of the university removed. It is believed that the rector is apathetic to his duties because the university is not accredited as a whole and there is an issue with a government subsidy that half of the students aren’t eligible for. There are certain schools within the University that have an accreditation but the university as a whole is still not rubber stamped. Watching the students run their own program is a little scary, who is the pseudo revolutionary pulling the strings of the organized chaos? This city has nearly six million people; needless to say there are several high traffic areas near our location. The students stretch large cloth protest banners across a wide thoroughfare and turn the vein into a four way stop – a sort of Chilean toll booth. Tensions run high between the motorists and the students – the rest of the onlookers are innocent….. As the voices build on the street Rene, Amelia and I get up from our table and walk over to a panoramic set of windows that provide a view of the city and a bird’s eye view of the street below. The students have railed in front of the rector's attractive building, a proud piece of Spanish architecture, and have brought along all the necessary ingredients for making a desayuno omelette. We have eggs, potatoes, tomatoes, flour and of course something to garnish this fusion. Approximately 65 students set up shop and begin breakfast, Chilean style… Like a cavalry the students are set in line, they begin to shell the rectors building with any and all methods at their disposal – faint trumpets are playing somewhere in the distance – the students begin to sing loudly with one voice- similar to a futbol match….I can only call it nationalism….. I look over at Rene and Amelia and they seem embarrassed and unsure about how to proceed. I, as I usually do in awkward situations, speak first – I tell them that I love the spirit of the students. They know a change is needed and they rally because they know there is no one else to rally for them. My American brothers’ don’t rally like this! – I continue speaking out of the deviant side of my mouth – The only thing that you hope is that this mob is made up of the best, brightest and most respected of students. Perhaps there are some potential PhDs in the crowd.. I hear glass break on the street. Rene looks at me, "There are no PhDs in that crowd; I’m going to call the police." The students have egged, potatoed, tomatoed, and floured the landscape, now the garnish – the most outstanding toilet paper job I have ever seen.. The students disappeared as quickly as they had set up shop and all that remained of the battle field were some very tired looking Peruvian janitors. Ah, ser un niño de la revolución.

Friday, April 25, 2008

Colo Colo is not a soda




Okay, so updating the blog every week or so was a bit ambitious sin internet, or perhaps we're just acclimating to the Chilean way of life, but either way, we have many stories to tell, so let's get right to it.
Futbol.  Do not call it soccer.  Yes, everyone knows it is referred to as soccer in the United States, but no, that does not mean you can keep this term in your vocabulary.  It would be a vast understatement to say that futbol is popular here.  The only thing more popular in Chile seems to be protesting, but I'll save that for another blog.  Chile's best team is Colo Colo and recently they took on their cross town rivals, Universidad de Catolica.  After being warned by everyone we spoke with that it would be much too dangerous for gringos to attend this monumental game, we concluded that we needed to have this true South American experience.  At the least it should win us some respect from our students....
Tickets were easy to come by and a steal at less than $20 a piece.  We met up with some friends, including our fellow English profe Inga, from Germany.  More on her later.  After circling the National Stadium and exploring our exit options, we ran for our seats with only seconds before the opening kick off.  I'm not sure if it was the sprint up the steps, the smell of hotdogs mixing with sweat and smoke, or the pulsing beat of the crowds, but our adrenaline was pumping well before the fireworks began.  And by fireworks, I mean the mini-rockets that fans were shooting at each other from point blank range....
I've never seen such a high level of soc, er, futbol, but despite the great action on the field, the real action was in the stands.  In perfect union, the fans yell, sing, dance and occasionally try to jump the fence to reach the field.  All while paying keen attention to the match; quite impressive!  The match ended with a victory by Universidad de Catolica one goal to zero over Colo Colo, not good news for the fans.  A few small fires were lit but the cabeneros proved to be fairly athletic themselves and the fires were extinguished with minimal drama.  Due to the fact that we were sitting on the Colo Colo side of the stadium (the stadium is very clearly and intentionally divided), we decided to wait a bit until the crowds thinned before venturing on.  After 30 minutes, the mass of black and red Colo Colo fans swirled down the road and our small group left the singing and dancing Universidad fans to party on in the stadium without us.  
We were warned by a family selling hot dogs on the street to avoid the Metro and due to the fact that taxis were not venturing near the stadium, we began the walk home.  As we were walking I got a phone call from a friend watching the mass of fans parade past her apartment.  The Colo Colo fans were still a bit agitated by the loss and taking their frustrations out on passing Metro buses.  Apparently rocks, sticks and brutal force were involved.  Lady luck was no doubt with us as we avoided the angry mob, found our way back through an unfamiliar neighborhood and truly never felt threatened in the least.  Well, expect for those hotdogs, they didn't sit well with me...
I previously mentioned our colleague Inga.  Inga is a 21 year old petite, blond and blue eyed German who speaks wonderful English through a very thick accent but no Spanish prior to coming to Chile.  She is very soft spoken and the kind of person I worried would easily be targeted for any number of crimes.  Inga, however, is nobody's fool.  Out of the entire group of friends who attended the game, and I should mention that all except for Inga were college educated, dark haired and over 25, Inga was the only one to travel solo to the game on the bus with crazy fans for over an hour, bring a camera, and avoid eating a hot dog.  Inga is a very brave, intelligent and well traveled young woman and I have learned many valuable things from her.  More great Inga stories to come (I'll tell you all about the weather in Miapo, pronounced with a German accent like my-poo) and any pictures from the match in future postings will be credited to Inga.  
XOXO to everyone and I promise we'll reply to comments and post with more consistency from here on out!